The Guardian

This Primrose Hill veggie pioneer...

apparently the first vegetarian restaurant in Britain, long ago closed the chapter on the Brown Rice Years, treating "vegetarian food" as just "food", with quality, form and taste the only criteria. Plump pumpkin organic gnocchi, with a blue cheese and sage sauce, could have come straight from Piedmont; punchy, precise flavours work tantalizingly together. I also liked the woody insistence of a wild mushroom and black truffle tart, along with its lightness, given weight in the vivid accompaniment of sautéed purple congo potatoes. Three cheers for a menu referenced vegan, please-ask vegan option, organic and gluten fee.


High point - doesn't treat vegetarians as victims...